August 27th, 2020 by Adhi Widjajanto

Repair: lapisan chrome sudah banyak karat di sana sini. Busa dropbar sudah mengeras dan sobek di satu sisi. As crank (bottom bracket) bengkok.
Enhance: ganti sadel yang lebih comfortable dan ganti brake lever agar saya bisa dapat posisi hood yang lebih agresif.

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June 6th, 2020 by Adhi Widjajanto

Kalau jok BR-V anda bunyi klotak-klotak saat diduduki, berarti posisi tumpuan jok bagian belakang tidak pas mengunci ke kaitnya. Biasanya karena jok pernah dibongkar untuk pasang sarung atau sejenisnya. Coba cara praktis saya memperbaikinya:

Kaki jok, masih ada covernya. Posisi baut kira-kira di situ, ga sempet foto tadi pas benerin.
  • Buka cover kaki jok, tarik ke depan bilah muka, bantu pakai obeng minus yang diselipkan ke ceruk antara kedua cover kaki jok
  • Kendorkan baut kaki jok, total ada 4 baut untuk setiap jok
  • Duduk di atas jok, goyang-goyang dikit, lalu kencangkan kedua baut yang ada di posisi depan sambil tetap duduk di atas jok
  • Lipat ke depan jok secara perlahan, lalu kencangkan 2 baut bagian belakang
  • Pasang kembali cover kaki jok, mulai dari yang bilah belakang, kemudian bilah depan. Pastikan kait-kait cover kaki jok terpasang dengan baik
  • Tes jok dengan duduk di atasnya, kalau perlu bawa mobil melalui jalan yang tidak rata

Works for me, setelah dari 2017 bunyi-bunyi setelah pasang sarung jok kulit… Wkwkwk…

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June 21st, 2015 by Adhi Widjajanto


The results. My 0.5A adaptor is too small to light all 10 AEs & 2 ledbars.

HowTo

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December 21st, 2010 by Adhi Widjajanto

Read my previous post about my broken charger? So pity cause it’s an 1.200mAH charger, best pair for my 1.200mA battery. I’ve tried using old HP iPAQ charger which has a plain USB port combined with bundled Nokia data cable (ended with MicroUSB type B), but it still won’t charge, even the cellphone gives me three blinking sign (still don’t know what that mean).
This afternoon I’ve managed to open AC-10E tri-shaped screws. Checking the circuit, it lost the power at the front hi-volt part. It should flow some current to the transformer but somehow it’s gone somewhere. Being lazy checking each components, I gave up easily. Then I look at the remaining USB cable. It only has 2 wires!
Thinking shortly I cut those wires from the broken charger, unassemble unused USB extended cables from my PC, and connect them together. At testing phase, I plug the modified cable to the iPAQ charger, plug in to the power outlet, connect the ending to the cellphone, and bang…!!! It really charges! Well, iPAQ charger is only 1.000mAH, took slighty longer than the original but it saves me for spending another Rp. 120.000 for a new AC-10E.

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